What's Eating My Sunflower?

Yesterday morning, I went outside to take a look at my sunflowers and saw that many of them appeared damaged. The petals were pulled off and scattered on the ground. The central disk, full of beautiful flowers ready to be fertilized into seeds, was half chewed away. What could be causing this?

My sunflowers are planted in two spots in the garden. The first section of sunflowers flanks a southern-facing wall of my home. Deer don't venture that close to the house, and neither do squirrels. The other section of sunflowers is in my vegetable garden, which is fenced off and so far (knock wood) the deer haven't found it yet. So what's eating my sunflowers?

Channeling my inner Sherlock Holmes, I decided to visit the garden again later this morning. Very quickly the culprit was revealed: the American Goldfinch.

This little bird, about the size of the sparrow, loves seeds. Flocks of goldfinch are descending on my sunflowers. Without waiting for the seeds to form, or perhaps enjoying the nascent seeds developing amidst the sunflowers, they're pulling the petals off and pecking with their sharp beaks at the sunflowers.  My flowers look like this:

Sunflower pecked apart by visiting goldfinches.

You know, as far as problems go, this is one problem I actually don't mind having. Yes, my sunflowers look bedraggled. Yes, the seeds I carefully dry and store to feed the birds in the winter are already consumed. Well, at least they're going to their intended customers! I normally dry the sunflower heads and hang them up among the trees on my property for the wintertime birds, but if they want to eat them now....well, what's a gardener to do?

It just goes to show you that not every "problem" with your flowers is caused by insects or by diseases. Sometimes animals and birds leave their mark on your garden, too. You can scare birds away with various devices, but even my cat, chattering away at the goldfinches from behind the safety of the windows, doesn't deter the hungry birds. I'll just chalk this one up to the birds and let them enjoy the feast!

Beat the Heat with Hot Weather Gardening Tips

I don't know about you, but I'm not a huge fan of hot weather. Why did I move to the south, you ask? Peace, quiet, gorgeous area...and room to garden, plus a longer gardening season. But the trade off? 90+ degree days in June. June!

The garden beckons, and with all the thunderstorms over the past two weeks and approximately 2 inches of rain per week, the plants are flourishing. Unfortunately, so too are the weeds. I've got weeds growing on top of weeds. The tomatoes need to be staked, the asparagus need to be staked, the remaining lettuce pulled...and I'm delaying all of this because of the heat. I'd rather stay cool in my air conditioned office and write about gardening than venture into the oven known as south central Virginia in summer and pull a few weeds!

There are ways, however, that you can stay cool in the gardening while you work. Most are common sense, but they bear repeating:

1. Use the early morning hours from dawn until about 10 a.m. to your advantage. If your garden is shady during these hours, it should stay pleasantly cool.
2. If you can't garden in the early morning hours, try gardening in the evening just before and after sunset. Wear plenty of mosquito repellent!
3. Wear a hat, loose clothing, and light-colored clothing. Think of how people in desert climates dress - they dress to cool their bodies and allow perspiration to evaporate.
4. Drink plenty of water. Keep a water bottle with you in the garden and stop frequently for water breaks.
5. If you must garden during the heat of the day, take plenty of breaks. Sit in the shade for a while or go back inside to cool off, take a drink of cold water, and rest for a bit before returning to your work.

Gardening during the summer months can be a sticky venture, but with these tips, you can "keep your cool" and enjoy your garden.

June Gardening Tasks

June is the month when Virginia gardeners can breathe a little sigh of relief, kick off their shoes, and relax on the chaise lounge with a sweet tea, admiring their handiwork. The hard-work days of May have passed, and the HHH days of July - that's hazy, hot and humid - are still a dream away. But before you put away your trowel and spade, it's time for a few more tasks.

June Gardening Tasks

• Look for bare spots in the garden, and fill them in with the annual flowering plants.
• Stake or cage your tomato plants to give them extra support.
• Plant marigolds around tomato plants to help repel the tomato hornworm.
• Harvest the last of your spring vegetables, and prepare the garden bed for your next crop by adding compost.
• Japanese beetles make their appearance in June. The best offense is a good defense. Practice year-round integrated pest management to control for Japanese beetles at every stage of their growth.
• This is your last chance to mark where your fall bulbs are planted, because in a few days or weeks, the tulips, daffodils and crocus will be but a memory. If you, like me, tend to dig up your bulbs accidentally, use plant markers to note where each is buried.
• Weed regularly and apply mulch to suppress weeds and retain moisture.
• Don't compost your weeds. Some may contain seeds. If you compost them, the compost pile's warmth might not be enough to kill the weed seeds, and they can spread further into your garden.

Enjoy your garden this June...and don't forget to water!

Fire Blight in Pear Trees

Fire blight is a serious disease in fruit trees and other ornamental plants.  The photo above shows one of my pear trees (in the front) infected with Erwinia amylovora, the bacteria that causes fire blight disease. You can recognize fire blight by the burned or blasted appearance of the tree's branches. The ends curl under too, like a shepherd's crook, and the fruit on the infected tree can be diseased, twisted, or weak.

Bacteria overwinter in infected trees, and when the sap begins to flow in the spring, the bacterial spores ooze out of the tree. Wind, rain, gardening tools and even beetles carry the spores from infected plants to healthy plants. Once a tree has the disease, there's little you can do to cure it, but a lot you can do to help the tree stay healthy on its own.

First, don't panic. Many trees can withstand some fire blight. The pear tree in my orchard shown here is seven years old, and it's probably had fire blight for five of those seven years. The pear tree behind it also had fire blight last year, but careful pruning seems to have removed most of the diseased limbs.

The Virginia Cooperative Extension office recommends the following treatment plan if you detect fire blight in your ornamental trees and shrubs:

• Prune out the infected branches in the late summer or early fall.
• Bury or burn the infected branches that your prune from the trees. This keeps the bacteria from spreading.
• Sterilize pruning tools with alcohol or a bleach solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water. I sterilize tools before moving on to the next tree, but if I have a seriously infected tree, I might swab down the pruners with alcohol more frequently to prevent spreading the spores into healthy tissues on the same tree.
• Don't use high nitrogen fertilizers. This causes as flush of new growth, which the spores love.

Unfortunately, chemical controls do not work well on fire blight, so your best defense is a good offense. Planting disease-resistant varieties is a smart idea. Purdue Cooperative Extension provides a good list of varieties resistant to the disease.

I did not know about fire blight when I planted my fruit trees years ago, but thankfully it seems to be contained to only one or two trees in my orchard. As you can see from the picture below, there's hope yet - baby pears are steadily growing on my trees.

Workshop: Canning Green Beans

Learn all about canning green beans! A workshop will be held at the John Randolph Firehouse in Cumberland, Virginia, on Thursday May 21, 2015 from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. Participants will learn safe canning methods for green beans. Pre-registration is required, and there's a $10 class fee. If you love to grow green beans, this class is a great opportunity to learn how to preserve the harvest.

For details, please see: Canning Green Beans Workshop

REGISTRATION by May 19, 2015 is required!

Peony Power!

There's an old, dilapidated house next to the post office in Prospect, Virginia that looks careworn and weathered. The white clapboard siding is peeling; the chain link fence around the property sags. A few window panes are gone. Debris from the local bicycling trail, candy wrappers from weekend warriors, blows across the rough wooden boards of the front porch. It looks like any other nondescript old house except for one item of note: the peony garden. Each spring, the yard of this old home erupts into a field of nodding magenta and pink blossoms that any gardener would envy.

As someone who loves old-fashioned peonies, I marvel at the hardiness of these herbaceous perennials. Native to Asia, portions of Europe and the Western United States, peonies were once a cottage garden staple, especially during the Victorian Age, the era in which the aforementioned house was built.  They grow well in Virginia, and thrive in cooler regions, too.

While there are several types of peonies, including the shrub type that I spied at the old house and grow in my own garden, as well as tree peonies, let's talk first about the herbaceous shrub-type peonies most commonly found in Virginia gardens.

Caring for Peonies

Peonies should be planted in area that receive full sunlight, or six or more hours of bright, direct sunshine daily. Good air circulation and rich, well-drained soil are both essential for healthy peonies. 

You can purchase peonies in pots or roots only. If you plant the roots, make sure the "eyes" or growth nodes on the stem are no more than two inches deep when planted. Roots planted more deeply may not produce flowers.

Peonies may need a year or more to become established in the garden, but once they are established, a winter period of chill and cold helps them set bud. It's best to provide them with a circular support to keep the heavy flower heads from dragging the plant down after a rainstorm. Peony hoops or stakes should be used to provide optimal support.

Keep your newly planted peony well-watered the first year. It probably won't flower the first year, and may not flower the second, but it should produce flowers by the third year. Apply a balanced garden fertilizer annually. Other than that, there's not much you need to do to care for peonies.

In the fall, after the foliage dies back naturally, clip it to the ground and remove the peony supports, hoop or stake. Discard the foliage in the trash. The only disease that really plagues peonies is botrytis, a fungal disease. Practicing good garden hygiene prevents botrytis from spreading.

Ants on Peony  Bushes

If you spy ants on peony bushes, don't panic. They won't harm the flowers. Ants are naturally attracted to the sweet nectar produced by the buds and flowers. Although they can be upsetting to some gardeners, they won't eat your flowers or plants, and they can be beneficial insects. It's best to leave them alone. If you'd like to bring cut peony flowers into your home for display but you're afraid to cart a few ants in with them, spritz the flowers outside with your garden hose to knock off the ants before bringing the stems indoors.  Both the ants and your family will thank you later.

If you haven't planted peonies yet, what are you waiting for? They're easy care, beautiful herbaceous perennials that grace gardens with an old-fashioned look. If they can thrive at an abandoned house, what can they do in your well-tended yard?

Photos by Jeanne Grunert/(c) 2015 Jeanne Grunert. All rights reserved.

Bonsai: What It Is and How to Do It

Bonsai is the ancient Japanese art of growing miniaturized trees in containers. It has been practiced for over 1000 years. Continue reading to learn more about one gardener's first experience and how you can start your own bonsai practice. 

Bonsai literally means tree or other plant planted in small container.  For years I have been interested in trying my hand at Bonsai and the slow, meditative concept of growing and pruning something for years appealed to me.  But my life was too busy.  Ten years ago I bought books, a pot, wire, clippers and all I needed was some inspiration.  Over the last several months I attended several programs on Bonsai and I felt that this was really something I could do.  One of the speakers said that the Japanese say if you haven't killed a Bonsai plant or two you aren't trying hard enough.  That gave me the inspiration I needed.

I bought a starter plant and some Bonsai soil mix.  I got out those long ago purchased supplies and studied how to prepare the pot.  Even that required finding some screen to prevent the soil from falling through the large drainage holes.  Took me a couple of tries, but I finally got them wired in and the bottom of my pot didn't look too bad.  One of the speakers had suggested that you make a 50-50 mix of Bonsai soil and good potting soil if this is your first Bonsai.  I got that all ready and then completely cleaned the roots of existing soil and potted up my plant, trying to place it at an interesting angle.  I had done some pruning before I took the plant out of its original container.  After planting, I pruned a little more since you don't want branches crossing over each other.  Going with the theory that you can take it off but you can't put it back, I have pruned every once in a while and only after studying the plant a bit.  I even tried my wiring skills on the right hand side to move part of the plant over to where I wanted it.

If your plant is one that normally grows outside, you need to grow your Bonsai outside, even in the winter.  You may want to protect the pot and soil during the worst part of winter particularly from cold drying winds.  During spring, summer, and fall you need to water your plant every day unless it rains.  During winter you need to water as needed just as if the plant was in the ground.  You may need to move your plant to a protected area and mulch the pot with something like pine needles.

Trying something new has been fun!  If my plant dies I will know that I have been trying hard and will try again.  I’m really not less busy but I am happier now that I have my first Bonsai.